Fregola Summer Salad
If this was just called pasta salad, I know I’d have lost most of you already. Meet fregola — a toasted semolina pasta from Sardinia that looks like oversized couscous and tastes like sunshine on a Mediterranean breeze.
Cabbage: The Humble Powerhouse of the Vegetable World
When we were in Tallinn last December, wandering through the covered markets with their stacks of root vegetables, jars of preserves, and cured meats, I stopped in my tracks. There, on a rough wooden table, sat the largest head of cabbage I’d ever seen. It was easily the size of a beach ball and priced about the same. It struck me then that this vegetable has been an enduring and important food across cultures and centuries.
Cabbage has been an anchor in Eastern European kitchens for generations, showing up in everything from borscht to stuffed cabbage rolls to fermented sauerkraut. It’s hearty, versatile, and perfectly suited for long, cold winters.
Whether it’s the small, tight green heads, the elegant Hispi/Sugarloaf variety, the frilly Savoy, generous Wombok or the dramatic deep-purple variety, cabbage has endless potential. Affordable and adaptable, a single head can feed you for days. It’s also a reminder of resilience and resourcefulness, of how cultures find ingenious ways to transform simple ingredients into meals that nourish body and spirit.
An Ancient Food with Staying Power
Cabbage has been grown and eaten for thousands of years. Ancient Greeks and Romans valued it both as food and medicine. It spread widely through Europe, where it became indispensable for peasants and nobles alike. Its longevity as a crop makes sense; cabbage is hardy, grows in cooler climates, and importantly can be stored for long periods. For centuries, it offered a reliable source of sustenance when other fresh produce was scarce.
That reliability continues today. Nutritionally, cabbage is a powerhouse. It’s high in vitamins C and K, a good source of fibre, and contains antioxidants that support overall health. Its low cost and high yield make it an economical way to feed a family well. It’s also been celebrated in folk medicine for its soothing properties. As a nursing mother, I used chilled cabbage leaves to ease the pain of mastitis, a trick gratefully passed down from one generation to the next.
Beyond Boiled Cabbage
Unfortunately, cabbage has a reputation problem. Too many people first meet it boiled beyond recognition, limp and overtly sulfurous. But when prepared with a little care, cabbage delivers main character vibes in spades.
I have a handful of go-to ways to enjoy it, dishes that celebrate its crunch, its sweetness, and its chameleon-like ability to transform:
- Chicken Crunchy Noodle Salad: A true weeknight hero, this shredded cabbage salad stays robust even when tossed with dressing, making it a perfect base for cooked chicken, toasted sesame seeds, and those delightfully crunchy noodles. It’s fresh, filling, and endlessly adaptable.
- Sauerkraut and Kimchi: Fermentation has brought cabbage into the spotlight again. Sauerkraut, the tangy Eastern European staple, and kimchi, Korea’s fiery fermented cabbage, both showcase the vegetable’s ability to transform into something bold, complex, and probiotic-rich. These are living foods, good for the gut and the palate.
- Roasted Cabbage: Slice a head into thick wedges, drizzle with a glug of olive oil, sprinkle with salt, and roast until the edges char and caramelise. What emerges is slightly smoky, tender, and surprisingly rich, a side dish that can hold its own next to roasted meats or stand proudly with grains and beans.
- Okonomiyaki: This Japanese cabbage pancake is an absolute fave. The shredded cabbage binds with batter and eggs to create a savoury, comforting dish topped with sauces, pickles and bonito flakes. It’s casual food, fun to make at home, and a reminder of cabbage’s global reach.
Find recipe here
From Tallinn to Tokyo, from sauerkraut to okonomiyaki, cabbage has quietly shaped the way we eat for thousands of years. It may never be the star of the show, but perhaps that’s its greatest strength. It doesn’t need fanfare; it just quietly gets the job done.
Nigella, Delia, and Grease-Stained Pages
I’m revisiting my own well-loved cookbooks — Nigella’s for pure comfort, and Delia Smith’s Complete Cookery Course for nostalgia. There’s also a small-batch recipe for Oatmeal Parkin, the kind of sticky ginger cake that makes rainy days something to look forward to. Put the kettle on, and let’s talk about…
Savoury Cheese Custard for all Seasons
If a sauce can be ‘quiet luxury’, this is definitely it. Kept low and slow on the hob, cream, egg yolks and cheese are coaxed together into a silky emulsion. Choose your cheese according to mood and frankly, this is my MO for most things. Spoon it over whatever vegetables…